carrotflowers

Made: summer blouse from Weekend Sewing

Project Notes: I only recently noticed people talking about this book, Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross, and most people had started with this project, the ‘Summer Blouse’ (which I still find odd as it’s long sleeved! Wherever I’ve lived in my life, summer is pretty hot, night and day!) I loved this blouse the moment I saw it. I went around blogs and flickr, and Heather’s own site for the book, trying to see what else the book had so I could justify getting it. If I’m being honest, there’s nothing in it that comes close to this top for me, personally, but there are still quite a few other fun projects in it. Some are for the home, some are for children, and there are also pajama pants for adults and kids, handbags and totebags.

I deemed it to be my Mother’s Day gift, and soon after I got it, I started working on a muslin for this top.

The muslin went smoothly, but right away I felt it was wide and a wee short (the length is a common issue other people took with the pattern.) It also was a bit wide in the shoulders for me, and it was the smallest size. The sleeves were also a bit wide overall on me. So, I set about making the most alterations to pattern pieces I’d ever done before, and felt very adventurous!

I narrowed the sleeves, shortened them by almost 10″ (!!), narrowed the shoulders by a few eighths, sewed the side seams at 4/8″ instead of 3/8″ and I lengthened the pattern by almost 2 inches. I cut the pattern just below the darts and added the length there - I didn’t want to add too much flare, and I remembered that with a lot of patterns the ‘lengthen or shorten here’ mark is usually not at the very bottom.

Mistakes/Complications: The top went off pretty much without a hitch except for one step which for some reason gave me a lot of trouble. That was sewing the bias trim around the neck edge.

Notes for Next Time: The neckline could be lowered, then length is a bit too short still, and the side seams might be taken in a bit. Also now that I’ve washed it a few times, I see the kokka linen/cotton mix frays like crazy. Trimming with the pinkng shears was def. not enough. Next time, overlock the SAs!

Made: onesie from Ottobre (knits class)

Project Notes: I took my first class at my local fabric store. It was called Sewing With Knits II. I’d taken one knit class before in the last city I lived in, a t shirt class. That was less than successful, although I don’t know that it was as much the class. At any rate, this time, things went very well. I think because I did some reading and had more general sewing experience, this time I had many questions for the instructor. I also busted out my snap setter for the first time (a snapsource tool) - that didn’t go so well in class, but when I got home, I went out on the porch and really hammered those snaps in. Success!

My main goal was to really get a handle on doing the binding so I brought a pattern with a lot. I cleverly, but by accident, bound the little sleeve ends first, and by the time I did the longer and more visible neckline binding, I was really getting the hang of it.

I’m so glad I took the class, and feel much more comfortable with knit sewing now.

Mistakes/Complications: I put the snaps on the wrong side, so the bottom snaps over the front, rather than vice versa. No biggie.

Notes for Next Time: None.

Want to make: hanging book display

This will probably not be something I do anytime soon, since there is a small investment in supplies and it requires the cooperation of my husband to get hung But it is an absolutely lovely idea. Click on the far right thumbnail to see the finished product - the main photo on this page actually just shows a kid in front of a regular bookshelf - which is what you are making an alternative for! Here is the link.

Made: top from Spring Top tute

Project Notes: I found this tutorial on SewMamaSew. It was love at first sight! I started with a muslin, with which I had much trouble! I also had some troubles getting the fit right on the final piece, but in the end it worked out just fine, and I’m very happy with the final product! The tutorial can also be found on the designer’s personal blog, made by rae, which I discovered through this tute, and think is great! I shortened the straps and didn’t do the optional curving of the side seams.

Mistakes/Complications: This is one of those patterns that you draft yourself based on your measurements. Making the muslin, I got into the type of trouble that is typical for me - despite having pattern pieces cut out to specific measurements, I cut a slightly different width on the bottom part, because I wanted to use a scrap that wasn’t quite wide enough. Not smart, since I’m not lacking in any muslin! I had to fiddle with corresponding pieces SAs and do a lot of tearing out and re-sewing as a consequence. I also had a little trouble understanding the directions for creating the pleats.

I know that when I made the final top, I had some trouble too. But sadly, I don’t remember exactly what it was. I think it was just that when I went to attach the straps, the back billowed out to much and fit poorly. I did a lot of raising and lowering where it attached in the front, and the back, and in the end, I attached the back pieces at an angle as well, and that did the trick. I have narrow and sloping shoulders, so this sort of thing was bound to be a problem for me. The funny thing is, there really is a front and back now! If I put it on backwards, the straps keep falling down and it feels less comfy!

Notes for Next Time: I will shorten the straps even more, because I ended up trimming quite a bit. Also will try moving the straps in maybe a half inch each, to see if it fits better. I think it would be interesting to try pleating the fabric first, then cutting and making the top band, and measuring its final width (adding in the SA) and using that number to cut out the pleated bottoms.

Actually it might be interesting (and easier :P) to leave the front pleated as it is, but for the back just do one wide inverted box pleat, sewn down fairly low so that it lies fitted for ~ the first third of my back.

Made: one piece blouse from ISBN 9784579111497

Project Notes: I actually made this muslin a long time before sewing with the final fabric. Another top ended up being my first from this book. But, this top did end up turning out pretty well. I added width to it because I was going to use it as maternity wear, but then felt there was too much fabric and restored it to its original width. In fact I now think it might be too much fabric still! I also narrowed the shoulder by roughly half an inch. Finally, I thought it was too long, so I did not add the 3.5 cm of SA, and dropped 2 more cm to boot.

Mistakes/Complications: It was a little tricky attaching the top to the bottom. Namely because once I tried the top on and settled it with pins to where it fit well, the bottom edge was none too straight. I had to wing it when attaching it to the bottom piece in terms of lining it up. It’s amazing it ended up ok. I did re-sew it at least once. The way that I bound the sleeve opening was a new one for me, so it took me a couple tries. The main issue was that I didn’t realize initially, the bias binding is mean to be turned entirely to the inside and sewn down. I’m used to binding being secured from the right side, and visible when worn.

Notes for Next Time: The sleeves are puffier than I’d like. If I make another I’ll probably try altering them to reduce the amount of fabric so there is less that gets gathered (the cap is less full.) In addition I think I should try to topstitch the sleeve so that it lies down a little flatter. I also made it a wee too short so I think I’d put back those extra 2 cm I removed. This pattern would also work totally fine sleeveless. It’s really comfy and nice in the summer.

Made: pants from Start Walking, toddler book

Project Notes: This is the second pattern I’ve made from my Start Walking (translation) Japanese pattern book. The pattern used a technique I’d hitherto not seen for making the casing. Essentially, you leave a space on the side seam, sew a securing rectangle around the gap, and fold over the top, and sew that down. It means the hole for the casing is not cut edges, and is additionally strengthened by the stitching around it. I really like the technique, although I botched it a bit this first time. I’ve used it since, and figured out that the trick was to sew the securing rectangle a small space after the gap.

I also altered the pattern by adding an inch or so of length, after consulting a current pair of my son’s pants & guessing they would be too short. In fact these pants are now a tad short on him. Otherwise the fit seems right though.

Mistakes/Complications: The fabric I used was a very thick, wide wale cord. It was a total nightmare in terms of slippage. Really horrifying. Such an unpleasant experience that afterwards I sought advice and got a walking foot for my machine. Even the foot doesn’t keep it from becoming at least a little unaligned. This cord is tough stuff! Other than the casing not being quite right as I described above, this pattern was a breeze.

Notes for Next Time: I used a fabric that was at least part linen for the pocket. The flaps of the pocket, upon being washed, got really wrinkly every time and wouldn’t lie flat. I ended up taking them off. I’d skip them altogether next time, or sew them down, if I bother to add them.

Made: top from Start Walking, toddler book

Project Notes: I totally love this design! This is the first pattern I’ve made from this Japanese pattern book for toddlers. All of the patterns in this book are really striking, unique, yet very simple looking as well. It’s a great book if you have a boy, as there are a nice amount of boys’ designs, and they’re all lovely designs.

Mistakes/Complications: No real problems putting this together, except when I tried it on my son, the opening was too small, so I had to adjust that a bit. I also did the button wrong initially, so that I sewed the entire opening shut, and had to rip that out and start again.

Notes for Next Time: Based on the mistake I just mentioned, I might slow down for the final step! My son really likes the top though, so I plan to make more.

Made: elastic pants from Pants de Go

Project Notes: These pants were super easy to make! They also fit pretty well. I can’t wait to try trickier stuff from this book. I used a thin cord so they probably won’t last too long.

Mistakes/Complications: I added patch pockets, something not on the pattern. I used a contrasting corduroy for the pocket’s outer, but a patterned cotton for the lining. Cord & cotton don’t play that nicely together and as a result, the lining peeks out a little. Boo! I’d pin more next time, but now I’ve got a walking foot I’m probably ok.

Notes for Next Time: Now that I’ve worn these for a few months, I would probably try narrowing the legs a little if I make this pattern again, which I suspect I will! Very comfy pair of pants.

Made: top from one piece blouse and smocks

Project Notes: This is the first thing I have made from this book, which I had for half a year before finally taking a shot at it! The top works nicely as matrnity wear, but I don’t know if I’m going to like it so much otherwise. I like the fabric, though!

Mistakes/Complications:
This was a difficult pattern for me to construct. It’s hard to describe why, but it was finicky to attach the bottom to the top. Also my top and bottom didn’t line up quite right, I had to undo and re-sew many times. This was also my first time mitering anything (bias trim in this case) and that was a challenge. It turned out well though!

Notes for Next Time: The overall look is not that flattering on me I think. Maybe if the torso part hit me a bit lower, or I made the next size up? Maybe with some washings, the fabric will drape more. It should look a bit flowy, but it fails to right now.

Made: top for my Mom

This is the top for which I made this muslin. It was for my mom, and I really labored over it. First I made several muslins while she was here, trying to get the fit right. Altering patterns is not something I’m experienced in, but I have to say, I also didn’t love the pattern.

My mom had brought me some kimono fabric and I decided to use it on her top. Kimono fabric is narrower than typical fabric here, narrower than 45″. Also in this case, it was from a kimono and had been taken apart. Therefore for the back pattern piece, I ended up sewing fabric together to get it wide enough to cut out the pattern piece!

Project Notes: I did not love this pattern. Mostly what I did not like were the facings that were to be sewn along the inside of each front piece. They were overly large in my opinion, and the directions for sewing them made little sense. I cut them to be a simpler, smaller shape and ignored the directions.

I decided to make my own frog buttons for this top, after I failed to find any I liked at the fabric shop. What an adventure! I bought a loop turner to make the tubing. My method could use some improvement, but I’m glad I did it, I think it added a nice touch to the top.

Mistakes/Complications: The fabric itself frayed like crazy so I ended up using some fray check on it.

Notes for Next Time: Yeah, I’m not so much making this top again. I think maybe my tubing was a bit wide, maybe the buttons look better when made with thinner tubing, or tubing made from a less thick fabric.