carrotflowers

Made: toddler jacket (Ottobre “Veikko” pattern)

Project Notes: I procrastinated starting this project because it looked like it might be hard. I was intimidated by the hood and separating zipper (a first). However once I figured out how to attach the hood, all went swimmingly.
It was easy and fun and a really nice pattern. It calls for a woven bias binding to hide the neckline SAs on the inside, which is a nice touch and a great place to stick a sweet piece of contrast fabric - I used aqua with white polka dots, mostly because I had some. The pockets are left with raw edges and call for double rows of topstitching. As my main fabric was a darker grey, I opted for a bright red for the topstitching, also to match the little sushi fish I appliqued to the front left.
Mistakes/Complications: I struggled with attaching the hood - it was the right length to pin exactly to the body of the jacket. But then how would the zipper attach? With help from a member of the Ottobre sewing group on yahoo, I learned that I needed to match up the ends of the hood with the CF seamline. It took me awhile to understand that meant the seamline , right before the allowance which the zipper attaches to - in my case right before the 1cm allowance on my CF pieces. I only pinned with barely noticeable ease and I was all set.

My zipper was too long, and there is not much info online for shortening a separating zipper. I cut the zipper so that it would fold over the top edges by about 1/2″. I did have to stitch, rip, and stitch a few times to get the stitching distance even on both sides of the zipper. I do a little too much adjusting the needle position as I go without noting what I do so that I can be consistent. I also forgot to line the pockets, I just spaced out. But I think it’s fine that way.

Notes for Next Time: Make sure the markings for the hood’s outer fabric extend a couple of inches. By the time I needed those marks they were sewn away into the SA!

Tags: jacket, knitfabric, Ottobre

Made: Slim T from Ottobre

Project Notes: I was so excited by the success of my knit fabric onesie, I moved onto a T shirt. I decided to try binding with some foldover elastic (often called FOE) that I had just received from a co-op. The color went well with some knit fabric I’ve had sitting around for awhile, waiting for me to figure out how to sew with the infamously hard stuff. I thought the color of the FOE would look nice at the hem so I used it there too.

The pattern was simple and came together easily, although the sleeve was just a bit longer than the armhole so I had about 0.5 cm sleeve extension each time. I should have pinned it with ease, it never occurred to me. I assume that directions will tell you when ease is needed.

Mistakes/Complications: The FOE was hard to work with. Unlike using knit for binding, it’s stiff and hard, even though it has stretch, and gets bulky and misshapen when pinned, like any stiff or bulky material. It was very hard and I tried sewing one side then flipping it over and doing the other, and I tried sewing it on with one go…I don’t remember what worked best. I did discover, when the hem was ruined by my adding it, that you don’t need to stretch FOE very much at all.

Notes for Next Time: I didn’t use FOE the next time I made this pattern.

Tags: knitfabric, Ottobre, tshirt

Made: another onesie by Ottobre

Project Notes: This project turned out less than a success and was made even sadder by the fact that I was intending it to be the take-home outfit for my soon to arrive son. In the end I think it will be wearable, and I think I learned some good lessons, so the final result isn’t all negative. Also, it’s probably a size too big for a newborn (well based on my last one, and ‘average’ size) so I’m going to try one size down and go for some redemption!

I was using some super soft and lovely mint colored single knit fabric for the main fabric. I loved, loved, loved this stuff the second I saw it in the remnants pile and took all they had. All they had was not enough, sadly, to try a second time. For more about the fabric choices and how it definitely impacted my project, read on!

Mistakes/Complications: Single knit was not a fabric type recommended for this pattern, which actually only suggests interlock. But I reasoned that interlock also varies in weight, an that this would probably still be ok for me. What is tricky, they say, about single knit, is that the edges like to curl up. This of course would make it hard to line up edges or even once pinned, to gauge the seam allowance for sewing. I did 2 things to counter this: 1) I cut the pattern pieces as needed, so that they were often sewn shortly after being cut. I think this helped. 2) I used lots of pins. No brainer, there. I also started the pins very, very near the cut edges trying to help battle the curl. Naturally when sewing I did a lot of leaving the needle down, lifting the presser foot up and smoothing down the curl.

The real mistake was my binding technique. It’s been a few months since my knits class and my successful onesie made in that class. Since then, I’ve made 2 knit projects but bound them with FOE. And I also had my failure when I did go back to knit binding. Once again, with this project, I had trouble with the neckline. I dug up the first onesie I had made this time, and compared it with my newer project, and realized that it was the back piece that was the real issue. I had done the binding too tightly, and it was curling up a little, so that it was not laying flat enough to create a large enough neck opening. (Again, I should have taken a picture but I since remedied the issue, mostly.) By this time I had already finished adding the sleeves and sewing the sides, so I couldn’t redo it and frankly, I didn’t want to.

I took my iron with the steam on to the binding, and this actually mostly fixed it. So yay! I learned the power of the steam iron, and the power of binding it poorly Note that initially I pinned the binding on the first edge I found (a sleeve), and removing the pins as I went, I would pull on the pinned piece slightly so that it all was flat for the machine sewing. On the next edge I decided to pull all the pins out once I had the first few stitches sewn, so I was freer to pull just the binding as I went. I’m not sure if this latter technique was a mistake. A couple times when I did this I had excess binding after sewing and trimmed even more away, so clearly I was pulling pretty hard.

Now the amount you need to pull must vary with the property of the binding you are using. I was using something new to my stash - a fairly heavy and elastic rib knit. In fact when you pull it you can see the shiny elastic in the fabric. So now I’ve learned to look a little harder at the stretch and recovery of the knit I use as binding. Not that I necessarily know enough to know what I’m looking for! But hopefully time and experience will help. I also think that once you first attache the binding, right sides together, if you look at the seam allowance from the wrong side, if it’s gathered so tightly that the seam allowance is starting to stick out - making it hard for you to keep it lying flat when you fold the binding up and over it for the next stitchline - then it is probably too tight. also - if the piece you just attached the binding too curls up, and won’t really lay flat even after some ironing, then it is probably too tight. In fact if it is curled up so much it is hard for you to successfully press the newly attached binding up with the iron, it’s too tight!

One other mistake I made - I had appliqued a sweet bunny from a kokka print onto the front of the onesie, using wonder under. I had not fused it so that it was completely dry (with wonder under you use a damp cloth between the project and the iron when fusing) so when I was stitching the whole thing was slightly damp and kind of stuck to the machine a bit and was hard to turn. I should have started over once I realized but I’m a ‘fight through it’ mix of stubborn and lazy.

I also sewed in a few pleats here and there. I think I did a careless job checking that the fabric I was attaching the binding too was laying flat beneath it as I went. This is a simple but critical habit to get into for general machine sewing.

As a crowning touch, when trimming the binding around the bottom, I cut not one, but two holes into the main fabric! Amazing! >.< I mended them by hand, but I'm not sure how wearable the whole thing is anymore. Definitely not a very successful project!

Notes for Next Time: Re-sew the binding if it appears too tight after the first stitchline (by looking at the back SA for one thing, but also if the piece just bound is curling up and not laying very flat). Pay attention to the stretchiness/recovery of the knit used for the binding. Remember to keep checking if the main fabric is laying flat underneath the binding as sewn.

Fabric: The main fabric was a single knit, very soft and certainly lightweight. The binding was made from a fairly heavy rib knit. It was stretchy but also rather stiff - I guess it had a lot of recovery. I think this, combined with joining it to something much, much lighter, contributed to my binding woes. Fabric choices and how they’ll impact my sewing is something I’ll try to give more thought to next time, at least when it’s going to involve any binding.

Stitches: I mostly used a 2.5 length/1.5 width zigzag to join, a 3.5/2.5 to topstitch and also to reinforce seams. I used my new (used) machine’s blanket stitch for the applique. My old machine did not have this. I love this stitch!

Tags: binding, knits, onesie, Ottobre

Not Made: lap T for infant

Project Notes: well, all was not well that ended well here. I intended to modify the onesie pattern I’d made before into a t for a friend’s new baby. That modification was easy enough: just line up the front and back pattern pieces and mark where to cut just before the legholes start. However, in the end the project turned into scrap.

Mistakes/Complications: I made one irreparable mistake: I trimmed the binding too much. In knits class, I was shown how to pin the binding first, see how the length seems and trim it if it’s not tight enough. Unfortunately I got overzealous with my trimming and when I sewed on the binding it was a bit short. Now I had intended to leave it a tiny bit short, because I thought the little ends I left unbound would get hidden in the seam allowance and would reduce bulk. But by the time I sewed the T’s sides together, I saw that part of the unbound bit was exposed.

By this point I was already experiencing problems. Even though I had previously made this pattern, this time the neckline looked bad. The neckhole appeared roomy enough for a 3 in diameter neck. I should have photographed this but by the time I saw the above mistake, I was too frustrated and tossed it on the scrap pile.

Notes for Next Time: Figure out why the neckline went awry. I actually wondered if I had cut 2 of the back or something.

Fabrics: I used a very lightweight interlock for the main fabric, and a medium weight one for the binding.

Tags: binding, failure, knits, lap T, Ottobre