carrotflowers

Made: summer blouse from Weekend Sewing

Project Notes: I only recently noticed people talking about this book, Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross, and most people had started with this project, the ‘Summer Blouse’ (which I still find odd as it’s long sleeved! Wherever I’ve lived in my life, summer is pretty hot, night and day!) I loved this blouse the moment I saw it. I went around blogs and flickr, and Heather’s own site for the book, trying to see what else the book had so I could justify getting it. If I’m being honest, there’s nothing in it that comes close to this top for me, personally, but there are still quite a few other fun projects in it. Some are for the home, some are for children, and there are also pajama pants for adults and kids, handbags and totebags.

I deemed it to be my Mother’s Day gift, and soon after I got it, I started working on a muslin for this top.

The muslin went smoothly, but right away I felt it was wide and a wee short (the length is a common issue other people took with the pattern.) It also was a bit wide in the shoulders for me, and it was the smallest size. The sleeves were also a bit wide overall on me. So, I set about making the most alterations to pattern pieces I’d ever done before, and felt very adventurous!

I narrowed the sleeves, shortened them by almost 10″ (!!), narrowed the shoulders by a few eighths, sewed the side seams at 4/8″ instead of 3/8″ and I lengthened the pattern by almost 2 inches. I cut the pattern just below the darts and added the length there - I didn’t want to add too much flare, and I remembered that with a lot of patterns the ‘lengthen or shorten here’ mark is usually not at the very bottom.

Mistakes/Complications: The top went off pretty much without a hitch except for one step which for some reason gave me a lot of trouble. That was sewing the bias trim around the neck edge.

Notes for Next Time: The neckline could be lowered, then length is a bit too short still, and the side seams might be taken in a bit. Also now that I’ve washed it a few times, I see the kokka linen/cotton mix frays like crazy. Trimming with the pinkng shears was def. not enough. Next time, overlock the SAs!

Made: top from Spring Top tute

Project Notes: I found this tutorial on SewMamaSew. It was love at first sight! I started with a muslin, with which I had much trouble! I also had some troubles getting the fit right on the final piece, but in the end it worked out just fine, and I’m very happy with the final product! The tutorial can also be found on the designer’s personal blog, made by rae, which I discovered through this tute, and think is great! I shortened the straps and didn’t do the optional curving of the side seams.

Mistakes/Complications: This is one of those patterns that you draft yourself based on your measurements. Making the muslin, I got into the type of trouble that is typical for me - despite having pattern pieces cut out to specific measurements, I cut a slightly different width on the bottom part, because I wanted to use a scrap that wasn’t quite wide enough. Not smart, since I’m not lacking in any muslin! I had to fiddle with corresponding pieces SAs and do a lot of tearing out and re-sewing as a consequence. I also had a little trouble understanding the directions for creating the pleats.

I know that when I made the final top, I had some trouble too. But sadly, I don’t remember exactly what it was. I think it was just that when I went to attach the straps, the back billowed out to much and fit poorly. I did a lot of raising and lowering where it attached in the front, and the back, and in the end, I attached the back pieces at an angle as well, and that did the trick. I have narrow and sloping shoulders, so this sort of thing was bound to be a problem for me. The funny thing is, there really is a front and back now! If I put it on backwards, the straps keep falling down and it feels less comfy!

Notes for Next Time: I will shorten the straps even more, because I ended up trimming quite a bit. Also will try moving the straps in maybe a half inch each, to see if it fits better. I think it would be interesting to try pleating the fabric first, then cutting and making the top band, and measuring its final width (adding in the SA) and using that number to cut out the pleated bottoms.

Actually it might be interesting (and easier :P) to leave the front pleated as it is, but for the back just do one wide inverted box pleat, sewn down fairly low so that it lies fitted for ~ the first third of my back.

Made: one piece blouse from ISBN 9784579111497

Project Notes: I actually made this muslin a long time before sewing with the final fabric. Another top ended up being my first from this book. But, this top did end up turning out pretty well. I added width to it because I was going to use it as maternity wear, but then felt there was too much fabric and restored it to its original width. In fact I now think it might be too much fabric still! I also narrowed the shoulder by roughly half an inch. Finally, I thought it was too long, so I did not add the 3.5 cm of SA, and dropped 2 more cm to boot.

Mistakes/Complications: It was a little tricky attaching the top to the bottom. Namely because once I tried the top on and settled it with pins to where it fit well, the bottom edge was none too straight. I had to wing it when attaching it to the bottom piece in terms of lining it up. It’s amazing it ended up ok. I did re-sew it at least once. The way that I bound the sleeve opening was a new one for me, so it took me a couple tries. The main issue was that I didn’t realize initially, the bias binding is mean to be turned entirely to the inside and sewn down. I’m used to binding being secured from the right side, and visible when worn.

Notes for Next Time: The sleeves are puffier than I’d like. If I make another I’ll probably try altering them to reduce the amount of fabric so there is less that gets gathered (the cap is less full.) In addition I think I should try to topstitch the sleeve so that it lies down a little flatter. I also made it a wee too short so I think I’d put back those extra 2 cm I removed. This pattern would also work totally fine sleeveless. It’s really comfy and nice in the summer.

Made: top from Start Walking, toddler book

Project Notes: I totally love this design! This is the first pattern I’ve made from this Japanese pattern book for toddlers. All of the patterns in this book are really striking, unique, yet very simple looking as well. It’s a great book if you have a boy, as there are a nice amount of boys’ designs, and they’re all lovely designs.

Mistakes/Complications: No real problems putting this together, except when I tried it on my son, the opening was too small, so I had to adjust that a bit. I also did the button wrong initially, so that I sewed the entire opening shut, and had to rip that out and start again.

Notes for Next Time: Based on the mistake I just mentioned, I might slow down for the final step! My son really likes the top though, so I plan to make more.

Made: top from one piece blouse and smocks

Project Notes: This is the first thing I have made from this book, which I had for half a year before finally taking a shot at it! The top works nicely as matrnity wear, but I don’t know if I’m going to like it so much otherwise. I like the fabric, though!

Mistakes/Complications:
This was a difficult pattern for me to construct. It’s hard to describe why, but it was finicky to attach the bottom to the top. Also my top and bottom didn’t line up quite right, I had to undo and re-sew many times. This was also my first time mitering anything (bias trim in this case) and that was a challenge. It turned out well though!

Notes for Next Time: The overall look is not that flattering on me I think. Maybe if the torso part hit me a bit lower, or I made the next size up? Maybe with some washings, the fabric will drape more. It should look a bit flowy, but it fails to right now.

Made: top for my Mom

This is the top for which I made this muslin. It was for my mom, and I really labored over it. First I made several muslins while she was here, trying to get the fit right. Altering patterns is not something I’m experienced in, but I have to say, I also didn’t love the pattern.

My mom had brought me some kimono fabric and I decided to use it on her top. Kimono fabric is narrower than typical fabric here, narrower than 45″. Also in this case, it was from a kimono and had been taken apart. Therefore for the back pattern piece, I ended up sewing fabric together to get it wide enough to cut out the pattern piece!

Project Notes: I did not love this pattern. Mostly what I did not like were the facings that were to be sewn along the inside of each front piece. They were overly large in my opinion, and the directions for sewing them made little sense. I cut them to be a simpler, smaller shape and ignored the directions.

I decided to make my own frog buttons for this top, after I failed to find any I liked at the fabric shop. What an adventure! I bought a loop turner to make the tubing. My method could use some improvement, but I’m glad I did it, I think it added a nice touch to the top.

Mistakes/Complications: The fabric itself frayed like crazy so I ended up using some fray check on it.

Notes for Next Time: Yeah, I’m not so much making this top again. I think maybe my tubing was a bit wide, maybe the buttons look better when made with thinner tubing, or tubing made from a less thick fabric.

Made: top from Sewing Patterns For Everybody #8

This is a pattern from the Japanese pattern book loosely translated as “Sewing Pattern for Everybody”. First, a picture of the muslin. It’s hard to tell from this little pic, but I struggled a lot with the bib piece. You can click on it for a larger view. I couldn’t quite work out the instructions for this part, as far as the cuts to make on the outer piece before matching it up. Regardless, I think the 2 pieces just don’t line up well. In this next picture, you can see the pattern pieces, and see the big space between the 2 where they are actually to be sewn together. Other than that however, the sewing went smoothly for this practice run.

Now, with the ‘fashion fabric,’ as they say:

Project Notes: Well I’m glad I did the muslin, because after that, I decided to hand baste the bib piece on for my real version, and then machine stitch, and that went much better. The sleeves might be a touch too much off of my shoulder, so maybe next time I’ll try to modify that. I could also do without the pleat on the back, so maybe skip that next time, and modify the pattern.

Mistakes/Complications: The bias binding on the sleeves was not very evenly done on one side. The trouble was the bias strips themselves, which I made.

I didn’t take the time to start with nice straight pieces. Also, on closer inspection I see that one side of the collar is slightly larger than the other.

Notes for Next Time: I think from now on, for collars, I’m going to draw the stitch line before sewing, to make sure that it turns out even on both sides.

Kayaki top #10 from Home Couture

Project Notes: I actually made this quite awhile ago, back in the summer, I think. This is the second time I’ve sewn this pattern - well third, I made a test version out of leftover curtain fabric. The test version is one of the first things I ever sewed, so I have a certain sentimental affection for this pattern. It’s also sweet and so simple and fast to make!

This pattern features raglan sleeves. The first time I made a wearable version, I consulted my go to person for sewing advice (whom I’ve sadly moved away from) and she taught me that I needed to match up the bottom end of the sleeve (the end near your armpit) and not worry that the top, by the shoulder, doesn’t match up. She also had me pin where the stitching would be, to then open it up and see if the seam appeared to line up correctly - a great tip. I have now mastered the raglan sleeve!

Mistakes/Complications: Well, I made the elastic a little too tight in the sleeves.

Notes for Next Time: Ummm…don’t make the elastic too tight?

Made: ottobre outfit

“Suzette” sash pants sans sash & the Maya top

Project Notes: This set was made for a friend’s daughter. The buttons are self-covered. The patterns are Ottobre Design, both from the first issue of 2008. The pants are drafted with belt loops and a sash but I skipped those for simplicity’s sake, and because I thought the sash was overkill (at least in this version, with my already busy fabric choices).

Mistakes/Complications: Well, these pants threw me for a loop. Every 2 out of three seams it felt like I ended up undoing. Matching pieces up wrong, sewing on the wrong side so that one crotch seam was in and the other seam the stitching was out, instead of the stitching both being in. Dumb but reversible mistakes. I cleverly sought advice on the pants after I’d made them. Turns out this is the sort of pattern where you sew the inseams and side seams, then put one leg in the other and sew the crotch, as demonstrated in this tutorial. I just winged it the best I could, and in the end it turned out ok. The pants also seemed waaay too wide in the waist so I ended up taking in the elastic twice. I also didn’t quite get how to do the leg bottoms’ elastic. I did each leg differently; one seemed better than the other but now I don’t remember what I did. I’m waiting to long to type up my notes and defeating the purpose of my sewing journal!

Notes for Next Time: Well, I think the top was a bit short and wide - this is a sort of common flaw with the Ottobre patterns, in my opinion. So next time I’d take it in a little and add to the lengthen. It might also be fun to add a band to the bottom, maybe in fabric matching the binding. About the pants - they were just way loose in the waist, just something to keep in mind. It might be fun to add a little detail to the join in the pants - maybe ribbon or rick rack going around?

muslin

Recently I appropriated a ton of free patterns via freecycle. I ended up re-freecycling over half, there were too many for a lifetime! I finally cracked open the envelope on one of them, this Butterick top. I love the one with the Mandarin collar and the kimono (or Dolman?) sleeves. So I started with a muslin and cut out the size 6. Making a muslin is a fantastic idea when you are working from an unfamiliar pattern or pattern company. For examply, by now I am pretty sure what size I need for burdastyle.com or a Machiko Kayaki pattern. In this case however, it’s a good thing I started with a muslin.

Three muslins later and I had altered the pattern, changing it so that rather than have separate facings, I extended the right and left front so that it could just fold over. I extended them just so that it would close comfortably as well, because it was too tight. I also had to narrow the darts.

It had been so long since I’d make a muslin - or sewn in general - that I remembered a couple of important things:

1. BASTE - use basting stitches when making a muslin so you can just rip it right the hell back out, easily.

2. Don’t trim the seams. :(   A couple of times I needed to rejoin pieces, after I’d already gotten carried away and trimmed the seams down. Blech.

p.s. in the lower right of the big photo - my new iron - I treated myself to a Rowenta. It just glides over fabric so smoothly